Back in Bath

Back from the UK in late April – April 2019, that is: we’re catching up from a year ago with this blog – we head down to Loyalist Cove Marina to unwrap True North III and ready her for launch this season, which will be very different from others in that rather than voyaging far from home we will actually be using the boat as our home in Toronto while we navigate the continuing extended delays in the construction of our condominium there.

We arrive to find the waters in the Great Lakes are rising even higher than they were in the “100-year flood” of 2019.

We stay at a waterfront hotel in Kingston while we work on the boat on land. The marinas will be late opening because of the high water. Again
Loyalist Cove Marina: under the rising waters of Lake Ontario
First, True North III appears out of her cocoon
Even on dry land, it’s good to be on board again
Land ahoy
Friend Harold in sailboat Columba is one of the first to launch in the very damp and empty marina

For True North this year, there’s some have duty mechanical work to be done by ace mechanic Dave P in addition to the normal prep. Over the winter Stephen has sourced two extremely rare Holset turbochargers, new, from a small company in the UK, to replace the 1977 originals (not an easy job), and the two fuel injection pumps have been rebuilt in Kingston and need to be reinstalled (not an easy job). Stephen will look on as this work goes on (a somewhat easier job).

It took several months of searching in Canada, the US, the UK, even Australia, to find a pair of new Holset turbochargers. No luck at any Perkins diesel suppliers – even Perkins UK – but they were finally run to ground via the internet in a small company on the south coast of England, Lancing Marine, who had exactly what we were looking for and sent us these pictures of the two beauties before they shipped them to Canada in the New Year
Dave also replaces a dozen high pressure hoses on the engines as a precaution
Harold helps Stephen with the new bottom paint. Well, actually, he does the painting while Stephen goes to get sandwiches and coffee.
The turbo chargers have to be installed before we launch.
So we’re ready
Fifteen tons and what do you get? Launch Day: Friday, May 17, 2019 at 15:00 hours
Because the fuel pumps won’t be installed until we’re in the water, we are towed over to the slip by Dave Hinton and the boys: a weird feeling, moving with no power
M is pleased as punch now we’re at the slip
We get our old slip back for the next few weeks while work is completed, and hopefully by then the marinas will be operating okay, despite the flooding
150 nautical miles away in Toronto Outer Harbour Marina, our season slip awaits us, underwater

From mid-May to early June we drive back and forth from Campbellville to Bath as the work continues, with a Perkins technician joining Dave P for the injection pumps, with starting and calibrating the engines, and we tackle other jobs that need doing that come to light, including gear shift and throttle cables from the upper to the lower helm, launching the dinghy, and on and on.

Meanwhile the rain keeps raining and it seems that the water won’t subside til August or even September.

Turbos looking good in place…
And the injection pumps…
…as Mike from Perkins joins Dave P in the engine bay…
…and Dave does his famous contortionist act

While we’re there at Loyalist Cove, we help Harold with getting his sailboat up and running, and venture out on the waters of Lake Ontario to wrangle the sails.

Harold unfurls the mainsail while S is at the helm of Columba

Finally, we prepare to leave Bath for Toronto. Since it is raining pretty much every day, we have to try and dodge the worst of it, with a three day trip ahead of us. The plan is to do a short 20 or so nautical miles to Picton on the first day, then a long day to Cobourg (76 NM) and finish off with another 60 NM across Lake Ontario to Toronto on the third. We scout out the places we’ll be staying by car and telephone over a few weeks before setting out, and the floods are going to have an impact for sure. Some marinas are having problems with their docks, and power and water is not available, though Toronto is in good, though wet, shape.

On the morning of our departure we have a last sea trial with Dave P to make sure everything is shipshape, then depart at 12:35 with the threat of heavy rain appearing later in the afternoon. We calculate a time of 2 hours and 45 minutes travel time, and head off under steel great skies. We are understandably the only boat out there as we head west into Adolphus Reach, as the clouds become more and more ominous. We end up tying up at Picton Marina just as the rain starts. And boy does it start.

Wednesday, June 5th, 2019: Cloudy with showers, threat of thunderstorms as we arrive at Picton
The sole visitor at Picton Harbour Marina. In fact, opening of the marina has been postponed because of the weather, so we get a free night’s stay. And power is on. We arrive literally as the rainstorm starts and which doesn’t let up til morning.
Water, water, everywhere…
The harbour dock at Picton under water

The sound of the torrential rain on the cabin roof is a little worrisome, but makes it cosy as we dine on trout and listen to the weather reports for tomorrow, which promise light winds and calm waters, which is good for us.

Day Two: The leaving of Picton Harbour, cool and with grey skies but calm water….

Next day, the forecast is improving by the minute. Up at 06:00, we pull out of the harbour and things get better and better. By the time we are travelling through The Bay of Quinte, the skies clear and the water sparkles in the sun, so we continue to travel further and further, with only a couple of fishing boats and a sailboat as occasional company.

A sailboat cruises along as the skies brighten
Hard to think this is the same day we left Picton

We arrive at the Murray Canal – at 5 miles long it joins The Bay of Quinte with Presqu’ile Bay on Lake Ontario – at 12:20 and the conditions are wonderful. The canal avoids having to go round the whole peninsula of Prince Edfward County, and is run by Parks Canada, with a swing bridge either end.

Not much traffic in the Murray Canal

The only customers for the canal bridgemaster, we call on the radio and he opens up for us, taking our $5.00 passage fee that Michel has to toss into a brass cup on a long pole that he stretches out to us. Such technology.

The Murray Canal toll-booth-on-a-pole

While Lake Ontario is not as placid as Quinte Bay, conditions are still lovely and we cruise into Cobourg Marina and Harbour at the end of a long, nine-hour day, tie up, and light the barbecue. The water in the marina is exceedingly high, and there is no fresh water or power available. But with our 160 gallon water tank, engine charging and solar panels, we are self sufficient for a good long while if need be.

Beautiful Lake Ontario
Cobourg Marina and Harbour: still waters run deep
Few boats in the water, but happily, the Coast Guard is on duty
Michel reads at the end of a long day

With another 60 NM ahead of us, and an average speed of 7.5 knots, we need another long day to get to Toronto, and are up at 05:30 the next day to cast off, and the weather is gorgeous. We could not have picked a better 3-day window to do this trip.

Day Three: Michel handles the lines as we tip-toe away at 06:00 on a perfect morning
A fine crossing, five miles out from shore
S checks on this, then that, then, of course, the other
Toronto rises on the horizon

We arrive at Toronto Outer Harbour Marina at 13:40, tying up at our pre-booked slip – our new home for the summer – with the help of friend Ron who is there to help us, at 14:00. The weather is now positively hot and the silence is golden as we turn off the twin Perkins diesel engines.

Our view from the bridge of our “new” home

The total trip of 148.0 nautical miles took us 19:40 hrs at an average of 7.5 knots. It would account for 2/3 of the mileage for the season, since we would be hauling True North III out at the end of the season to spend the winter on land. (In comparison, we travelled 1200 miles for 167 hours to Lake Huron and back in 2017, and 1500 miles for 180 hours to The Saguenay and back in 2018).

The day after we arrived, it started to rain again, and the winds pick up
All summer would be strange, but often very beautiful.

The next day we woke to the by now familiar sound of rain pittering and pattering on the roof of True North.

Spring is sprung in England

After our trip to Mexico in March, and another brief stay at poor Wendy & Bill’s in Campbellville, we packed our bags again, leaving the snorkel gear and sunblock behind, and arrived at Heathrow for a three week “sandwich”: visiting family in Windsor, the Midlands, Liverpool, Norwich and Windsor either side of a week’s holiday on a narrowboat on the Oxford Canal in the middle.

Michel gets into the spirit of a walk around town near cousin Stuart’s home in Windsor where we stay for our first couple of nights (as usual)
It’s a short walk from cousin Stuart’s house to the Queen’s gaff, should she feel inclined to put the kettle on
Up the motorway to Warwickshire, where we stay at a small hotel in lovely Kenilworth and visit with brother and sister and cousins and all the littler ones, all of whom live nearby
Kenilworth Castle. Renovated by King John in the early 13th century, then again by John of Gaunt in the late 14th century, and often visited for a walk by brother John in the 21st.
Continue reading “Spring is sprung in England”

Winter 2019

It’s a bit odd writing a blog a year late, but 2019 was an odd year. (2020 would prove to be a great deal odder, but that’s a different story).

2019 was to be the year of living in a dizzying number of places.

Cold storage

True North III was still tucked up in her shrink wrap in Loyalist Cove by the time January saw us spending 4 days on an Ontario farm owned by friends who wanted a winter getaway, babysitting 45 chickens and a dozen or so barn cats. We collected lots of eggs every day and didn’t lose one chicken to a coyote. The timing was such that we had to survive three of the coldest days of the year, complete with blizzards and freezing water pipes, but all those omelettes kept us warm.

In the bleak mid winter
Todd the rooster has a lot to crow about
Morning visit with “the girls”

February saw us losing our rented apartment in Toronto where we had been living since selling our house there in 2016. This rental was our “half-way” house for us to use as a base and cruise on the boat in summers – which we did, in 2016, 2017 and 2018 – while we waited for our new condominium, just down the road, to be built. Completion was scheduled for September 2017.

Wrong.

Continue reading “Winter 2019”

A Departure and an Arrival

Wednesday August 29, Lower Brewers Lock, our last stop on the Rideau. Despite the strong winds on the eve of our departure for home base at Loyalist Cove Marina in Bath, we take one last dinghy ride on the Cataraqui River, accompanied by a heron, a kingfisher, and a small swimming mammal, probably a muskrat.

Our last dinghy ride of the cruise

And our evening is made very beautiful indeed by the sunset as the winds die down and all is still.

Our last sunset on the Rideau

Continue reading “A Departure and an Arrival”

Home Run

M takes the helm on the leg to Burritts Rapids

Friday, August 16; Day 85: Leaving Ottawa and its associated locks behind , we head up the Rideau River from Long Island locks for the stretch to Burritts Rapids, on a grey and blustery day, and are, not surprisingly, pretty much alone on the water. This is the northern portion of the canal, which is new to us, but we still find the nature of the Rideau familiar and it feels good to be back. We’re on the home run to Kingston over the next two weeks.

We stop for 2 nights at Burritts Rapids, a green and pleasant lock, where we wait for some better weather and do the usual lolligagging.

The top of the lock at Burritts Rapids. The usual suspects: American trawlers, Cruisers from Quebec, and weekend boats from the local area

A good spot below the locks

Dad and Daughter on a canoe trip

Continue reading “Home Run”

Bonjour and Good Night

A foggy morning at L’Anse-a-Martha

Wednesday August 08, Day 76: After the thunderstorms we are ready to head out from our little marina hideout on the Ottawa River to the luxury Chateau Montebello, and are faced with a wall of fog, which turns to mist…so off we go. Of course, the mist turns into fog again, and then drizzle, but there’s little traffic out there.

Fog into mist

Take mist and add a little drizzle to make it more interesting

Continue reading “Bonjour and Good Night”

You don’t need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows…

…but it helps. As well as Environment Canada Marine Forecasts, and, when you’re online and mobile, weather apps and Weather Network. And we used them constantly before and after leaving Trois Rivieres: Lake St-Pierre beckoned, and we didn’t want to cross that body of water at the wrong time.

Weather or not apps are highly valuable, though not always accurate

We left Marina Trois Rivieres on a fine morning – Sunday, July 29, Day 66 – and had a fine crossing of the lake, disturbed only by another pincer movement of two giant cargo ships, coming from opposite directions, and passing each other with us – and a small sailboat – in the middle of their huge wakes.

A pincer movement on Lac St-Pierre

But it was still a fine morning, even against a 1 1/2 knot current

Continue reading “You don’t need a weatherman to know which way the wind blows…”

A Hop, Skip, a few Jumps, and Hurry Up and Wait

Saturday July 21, Day 58. We are due to leave Tadoussac, having stayed the night in the marina there, where we had also run into our new friends from Trois Rivieres, Maurice and Renée of the 36 Monk trawler “Le Sophie et Marie”, who were in Tadoussac on their son’s sailing boat. Small world.

We had ahead of us the first of the two big legs back to Quebec City, when the tide has to be right – flood, not ebb, the former being weaker than the latter – and the winds light (and never in opposition to the currents, a state of affairs which is not all that common), and all this for two days straight. The next two days looked good, so we grabbed ’em.

A clear calm morning departure from Tadoussac

We started the engines at 05:30 and on our way out of Tadoussac we see some harbour seals surfacing and diving in the channel. A fond farewell.

The Prince Shoal Light comes into clear view, with a cruise ship moving across the horizon

The two days were worth choosing: we have a good run both days, the first for 47 miles to Cap A L’Aigle, which we reach by 11 o clock in the morning with the current giving us a boost most of the time.

The water constantly changes in character as we move upriver

We are the only ones on the water apart from a few harbour seals

Continue reading “A Hop, Skip, a few Jumps, and Hurry Up and Wait”

From Here to Baie Eternité

A very long time ago – 20 years, in fact – we had driven to Tadoussac in late winter when almost everything was still closed, and there was still ice on the Saguenay. This time, arriving by boat, we found a bustling, happy place, with lots of funky restaurants, numerous whale watchers and the whale watching boats they watch whales from constantly coming and going, a multitude of gift shops – some of them not at all bad – a wonderful new whale museum & interpretation centre, and at the marina, sailboats visiting from all over, with bronzed, good looking men strumming guitars and singing love songs to good looking women as they sipped wine at sunset. All in French. The grand old Hotel Tadoussac, surrounded by all this, still manages to retain its dignity, though its glory is a trifle faded.

The grand old Hotel Tadoussac

The dining room – you can order roast beef table d’hote for $50 a head plus

Or you can taste the local brew and hear some music

One of the three churches

Continue reading “From Here to Baie Eternité”

A Whale of a Time and Tide

After a week in the hustle and bustle of the city – any city, even Quebec – we are ready to get back to our quest for the prize: the Saguenay. We have logged 680 miles so far, but Tadoussac, the mouth of the fjord, is another 130 miles away. However, there’s nowhere to stop between Quebec and there other than Cap A L’Aigle at Malbaie (site of the infamous 2018 G7), other than Ile D’Orleans, a mere 10 miles into the trip, because there’s nowhere to anchor. Starting from Ile D’Orleans will allow us to knock up to two hours off the longest sector of the journey, so, after supplying the boat, topping up with water and brewing several cups of our Balzac’s coffee we depart Quebec marina on Tuesday July 10, the winds and tides having at last come into harmony for us.

M emerges from below decks, headsets at the ready

After the jog, we tie up in the basin of Ile Bacchus de Ile D’Orleans in the afternoon, bucking a major current at the harbour mouth, and on a rising tide to avoid the bit in the middle that causes grief at low water.

Docked at Ile D’Orleans – the scenery has changed a lot compared to Quebec City

The harbour is completely different from the fancy, comfortable marinas we have been staying in. Already, there is a no-nonsense salty flavour, and add in the 12 foot tide and you start to feel like you’re heading towards the Atlantic. ‘Cos you are.

The St Lawrence stretches ahead. We’ll be off tomorrow.

True North III at the wall, village in the background.

An unusual perspective on our extremely useful solar panels, which keep our batteries topped up.

Continue reading “A Whale of a Time and Tide”