Spring is sprung in England

After our trip to Mexico in March, and another brief stay at poor Wendy & Bill’s in Campbellville, we packed our bags again, leaving the snorkel gear and sunblock behind, and arrived at Heathrow for a three week “sandwich”: visiting family in Windsor, the Midlands, Liverpool, Norwich and Windsor either side of a week’s holiday on a narrowboat on the Oxford Canal in the middle.

Michel gets into the spirit of a walk around town near cousin Stuart’s home in Windsor where we stay for our first couple of nights (as usual)
It’s a short walk from cousin Stuart’s house to the Queen’s gaff, should she feel inclined to put the kettle on
Up the motorway to Warwickshire, where we stay at a small hotel in lovely Kenilworth and visit with brother and sister and cousins and all the littler ones, all of whom live nearby
Kenilworth Castle. Renovated by King John in the early 13th century, then again by John of Gaunt in the late 14th century, and often visited for a walk by brother John in the 21st.
Sister Alison and daughter Amy in her care home, Bede Village, in Bedworth near Coventry…
…and with daughter Jane and Amy’s dog Taylor
A week on and we continue on the M6 up north to Liverpool, where we have lunch with cousin Jayne in the Victorian splendour of the famous Philharmonic Dining Rooms pub opposite the Royal Philharmonic Hall on Hope Street. They have a great selection of excellent pies including Game Pie and Steak and Nicholson’s Pale Ale Pie.
Now awarded the status of a Grade 1 Listed Building of Historic Interest – the same category as enjoyed by Buckingham Palace, but offering much better fish’n’chips – the Phil was also one of John Lennon’s favourite pubs, and Paul has played there too
Michel is allowed by the bar staff into the Gents to admire the Victorian tiling which was a major factor in the Phil receiving England’s Loo of the Year award a while back
Hope Street runs between the two cathedrals of the city, the Anglican Cathedral (the biggest cathedral in Britain, in the distance in the photo above), built between 1904 and 1978 at one end, and the Roman Catholic Metropolitan Cathedral – locally called “Paddy’s Wigwam” – at the other, which was built between 1962 and 1967 (no, that’s not a typo – construction took only 5 years). Over half a million Irish escaped the Great Famine of 1845 – 1852 by getting the ferry from Dublin to Liverpool, and then on to North America, but with a great many settling in the city. Thus the desire for a Catholic cathedral, and the site was chosen as a symbol of amity between the English Protestant and Irish Catholic communities. While Hope Street itself was named long before either cathedral was built, taking its name from William Hope – a local merchant whose house stood on the site now occupied by the Philharmonic Hall – it is undoubtedly remarkably appropriate and an example of happy coincidence.

Driving back to the Midlands, we left the steel grey skies of Merseyside behind us as the weather improved in leaps and bounds to summer-like conditions. Before going back to Kenilworth, we stopped in the Cotswolds for a couple of days, staying in a B&B in Blockley, a very pretty village (aren’t they all?) between Chipping Camden and Moreton-in-the-Marsh.

Plopped into a setting right out of Midsomer Murders, Miss Marple and Father Brown, we hiked the picture perfect countryside and strolled the towns and villages made of that lovely honey-coloured Cotswold Stone. It was almost too perfect to be true, and the fact that it was still early in the season meant we weren’t caught in the madding crowd. Sadly, though, we did not come across any mad vicars on bikes more any deceased colonels in the library with a candle stick next to them.

The Village of Blockley (site of Father Brown’s vicarage in the TV series, as it turned out)
Blockley. A river runs through it
Miles of stiles and smiles
Spring is sprung down on the stud farm
Nice place, the Slaughters, despite the terrible name.
Too perfect to be true. Unless you’re absolutely loaded.
Brother John loaned us his walking guides…
…and we still got lost. One gate can look remarkably like another.
A path through the fields of rape. (We prefer the Canadian name: canola).

The Cotswolds are something like half an hour from anywhere else, just like everywhere in England, so after loading up the car, we were soon back in Warwickshire and with family again, before we were due at the canal boat hire wharf in Braunston, Northamptonshire.

The British canal system: 2,000 miles dug out of the clay during the Industrial Revolution mainly by Irish “navvies” (as in navigator) and French POWs from the Napoleonic wars

On the appointed day we arrived at the wharf, where cousin Pete saw us off on our “voyage”. Our boat was 41 feet long with a beam of 6′ 10″, the better to navigate the narrowest of the canal locks, which are exactly 7′ wide. (Rare is the narrowboat that does not have scars of battle decorating its steel hull).

The canal, she be shallow and narrow.

There is a speed limit of 4 mph on the canals, but this does not prove to be much of an imposition since your average speed in a day is just under 3 mph, what with bends and bridges and no wake zones and locking and passing and what not. Besides, the boat won’t go any faster than that even at full throttle.

All in all, a somewhat different experience from navigating the locks of the Saint Lawrence Seaway between Cornwall and Montreal in True North III (47′ long, 13′ 3″ beam, twin diesels 160 hp each, cruising at 8 knots negotiating locks which are 766 feet long and 80′ wide), which we did in 2018. Now, from Midsomer Murders we have been transported plop dash into the middle of The Wind in the Willows.

Wind in the Willows country
Michel walking the plank
A bridge not too far
And another one

After our first night moored on the canal, we upped and pootled along to The Folly near Napton-on-the-Hill for another, pre-arranged family gathering, this time a full Sunday roast and pints in the pub garden, all 18 of us: nieces and nephews, siblings and cousins. Smashing.

Jolly at The Folly
Ellie and Ivy Rose and Michel and Emma and (another) Stuart, and John, and….
…Jane and Emma Jane and Amy and Cameron and Spider Man (aka Evan)….
….and Martha and Emma…
…and Ellie and Ivy Rose….
…and Martha presses Jean’s nose. Not sure why.
Napton: M checks out the first of the locks we’ll be going through on the morrow
Quiet time approaches
The remains of the day

The next day, we push away from the mooring and tackle the first flight of locks, of which there are six in quick succession, joined by cousins Pete and Jen and their grandchildren, who live close by.

The first flight of locks
Is there honey still for tea? Jen, Michel, William, Thomas and Pete
Basically, you can stop wherever you like, as long as not on a bend, and where the banks are not sliding into the water
Wherever you stop, there tends to be a pub nearby, this one in Fenny Compton
Bridges can be a trifle intimidating, especially if you can’t see what’s coming the other way
Towards the end of the week, the weather started to change a little…
….which made it a little less amenable for Michel to work the locks…
…and there were quite a few locks
They’re not called narrowboats for nothing. 6′ 10″ wide and that’s your lot

From Northamptonshire we drove east to Norfolk and the fine city of Norwich where my dad was born and where we spent our childhood summer hols, and where I even went to University.

A Fine City, Norwich

Norwich is also where Mum met Dad in 1941 while staying with Uncle Norman in his pub The Catherine Wheel – she was serving behind the bar when in walked Tim, who did some freelance work for Uncle Norman fixing radios and fancied a pint. She was staying in Norwich at that time because Hitler kept on insisting on bombing Liverpool and her docks, where Mum’s home was.

The Liverpool Blitz was harshest in 1940 and 1941

Ironically enough, with Mum having been moved from one side of the country to another for safety, Adolf decided to bomb Norwich as well, and dropped incendiaries on the pub one night in 1942, with Mum, Uncle Norman, Auntie Kit, two-week-old baby Stuart and Patch the dog and her pups, all just escaping by the skin of their teeth in their pyjamas, losing everything else they had ever owned, except their little Austin Ruby, into which they piled, putting Patch and pups in their basket on the roof of the car.

Norwich was a casualty of the Luftwaffe, mainly in 1942

We visited with cousin Lesley (daughter of Auntie Kit and Uncle Norman) and husband Stephen, their grandson Harley and daughter Kate, up from London. As well as a trip to the Norfolk Broads, we dropped in at majestic Blickling Hall, an Elizabethan palace and home at one time to the Boleyn family, where young Ann, still with a good head on her shoulders, grew up.

Kate and Michel and Lesley at Blickling
The hall of the Boleyn family
More wind in more willows: the Norfolk Broads

From Norfolk back to Windsor and a brief stay til the flight back: it was late April and time to think about preparing the boat for launch. It was planned that it would be our home for the summer. Loyalist Cove Marina, near Kingston, Ontario, therefore, was next on our list.

Back in Canada: Loyalist Cove Marina. The season is about to begin

One Reply to “Spring is sprung in England”

  1. Thanks for the tour of the beautiful English countryside. It was fun to see your family and where you grew up. The photograph of Remains of the Day is a new favourite and the image of Michel walking the plank struck me funny.
    Love Taylor.

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